Izmir Street Food and Gastronomy Guide
Izmir Street Food and Gastronomy Guide
Izmir is, without question, one of Turkey's great gastronomy capitals. Fresh vegetables grown in the fertile Aegean soil, dishes generous with olive oil and street food recipes passed down from generation to generation turn this city into an open-air kitchen for every palate. Giving a single answer to the question what to eat in Izmir is almost impossible, because a different flavour surprise waits on every street corner. In this guide you will discover Izmir's unique street food, local specialities and food routes, along with everything you need to experience the city like a true local.
Izmir's Legendary Street Food
Street food culture is an inseparable part of Izmir's identity. From the early morning hours until late at night, the delicious smells drifting out of the side streets are enough to enchant any visitor.
- Boyoz: The first taste that comes to mind when you think of Izmir is boyoz. Inherited from the city's Sephardic Jewish community, this pastry is rolled out in thin layers and baked until golden. Plain boyoz should always come with a boiled egg and a glass of tea. You can find fresh boyoz early in the morning at the historic bakeries of Kemeraltı and Alsancak.
- Gevrek (Izmir's simit): The ring-shaped bread known as simit in Istanbul is called "gevrek" in Izmir. Izmir's gevrek is thinner, crispier and more generously covered in sesame. A fresh gevrek bought from a street vendor while strolling along the Kordon is an essential part of the Izmir experience.
- Kumru: Especially popular in Çeşme and along Izmir's coast, kumru is made by filling a special bun with sucuk (spicy Turkish sausage), kaşar cheese, tomato and pepper. Toasted in a sandwich press, it is ideal for anyone looking for a quick but filling meal.
- Söğüş: Söğüş, made from boiled beef or lamb sliced very thin, is one of Izmir's traditional street foods. Served in bread, it is eaten sprinkled with salt, cumin and red pepper flakes. You will find the tastiest versions in the tradesmen's restaurants (esnaf lokantası) of Kemeraltı Bazaar.
- Lokma: Traditionally handed out in Izmir on special occasions such as births, circumcision ceremonies and weddings, lokma can now easily be found in the side streets too. Small balls of dough are fried in hot oil and dipped in syrup. Warm and crunchy, lokma is Izmir's sweetest street treat.
Flavours Unique to Izmir
Izmir's cuisine is not limited to street food. The rich soil and mild climate of the Aegean region have given Izmir many flavours that are entirely its own.
- Tulum cheese: Matured in goatskin bags in Izmir's mountain villages, this cheese with its sharp aroma and creamy texture is a breakfast-table essential. Tulum cheeses from Tire and Ödemiş are especially famous.
- Şambali: Made with semolina, yoghurt and sugar, this traditional Izmir dessert is soaked in syrup after baking. Served with kaymak (clotted cream) or ice cream, it is impossible to stop at one piece.
- Izmir köfte: The Izmir version of classic meatballs is baked in the oven with potatoes and a tomato sauce. When the tender meatballs meet the slightly tangy sauce, the result is a dish that has become one of the city's symbols.
- Wild greens: Greens grown in the fertile Aegean soil form the foundation of Izmir's cuisine. Wild greens such as radika (wild chicory), sirken, mallow and chicory are sautéed in olive oil and finished with lemon.
- Zeytinyağlılar (olive oil dishes): Olive oil is the backbone of Izmir cuisine. Dishes such as artichokes, broad beans, celeriac, leeks and stuffed vine leaves cooked in olive oil are both healthy and extremely tasty. In spring in particular, olive oil dishes made with fresh artichokes and broad beans are a must.
A Food Tour of Kemeraltı
Kemeraltı Bazaar is the historic heart of Izmir and also offers one of the richest food routes in the city. Walking through this bazaar, with a history of around 400 years, will satisfy your appetite as much as your eyes.
We recommend starting your Kemeraltı food tour on Anafartalar Street. Begin the day with a fresh boyoz and a boiled egg from the historic boyoz bakeries at the entrance. As you head into the inner streets of the bazaar, söğüş sellers, kokoreç stalls and confectioners will be waiting for you.
The narrow streets around Hıdırellez Street are home to traditional tradesmen's restaurants. Here, home-style dishes cooked fresh every day, olive oil dishes and hearty meat stews are served at very reasonable prices. Having lunch at one of these restaurants is a genuine Izmir experience.
You can round off your Kemeraltı tour with a Turkish coffee at Kızlarağası Han. Dating back to the Ottoman era, this historic caravanserai is now home to cafés and gift shops. Sitting in its courtyard sipping your coffee, you will feel the atmosphere of centuries.
The Gastronomy Experience in Alsancak
Alsancak is the modern face of Izmir and the most dynamic neighbourhood of its food scene. Kıbrıs Şehitleri Street and the streets around it are packed with hundreds of places to suit every taste.
Alsancak's café culture is highly developed. There is a wide range on offer, from third-wave coffee shops to nostalgic spots serving traditional Turkish coffee. Having breakfast in the morning at a café overlooking the Kordon is one of Izmir's most enjoyable rituals.
World cuisines are also well represented in Alsancak. Restaurants serving Italian, Japanese, Mexican and Far Eastern food reflect the neighbourhood's cosmopolitan spirit. Yet the real soul of Alsancak lies in its meyhane (tavern) culture.
Step into Alsancak's meyhane streets in the evening and you get the chance to experience meze and rakı culture with live music. Tables laden with fresh seafood, spicy acılı ezme, atom (strained yoghurt with dried chilli), artichoke hearts and dozens of other mezes capture Izmir's tavern tradition at its best. This experience will be an unforgettable part of your Izmir food tour.
Izmir's Breakfast Culture
Izmir is also known as Turkey's breakfast capital, and it more than deserves the title. For people in Izmir, breakfast is not just a meal but a social ritual. Weekend breakfasts that last for hours are one of the finest expressions of the Izmir way of life.
Serpme kahvaltı (a breakfast spread) is Izmir's most popular breakfast format. Dozens of small plates are laid out on the table: a variety of cheeses, jams, honey, kaymak, olives, sliced fresh vegetables, egg dishes and freshly baked bread. The Aegean's famous herb cheeses, fresh çökelek and strained yoghurt are what set an Izmir breakfast apart from other cities.
For a village breakfast experience, you can take day trips to villages around Izmir such as Şirince, Tire and Birgi. Breakfasts served in the gardens of stone houses, with gözleme cooked over a wood fire, butter made from freshly drawn milk and herbs picked from the garden, make for an unforgettable experience.
There are also many places around Alsancak and the Kordon that serve an excellent breakfast. A breakfast spread facing the sea early in the morning is the perfect way to begin your visit to Izmir.
"Eating in Izmir is not just about filling your stomach; it is about tasting a culture, a history and a way of life."
Riva Hotel Alsancak: Start the Day with an Open Buffet Turkish Breakfast
Riva Hotel Alsancak is the perfect base for exploring Izmir's food scene. Located in the very heart of Alsancak on 1454 Street, our hotel is within walking distance of the restaurants on Kıbrıs Şehitleri Street, the cafés along the Kordon and Kemeraltı Bazaar.
You can start the day with our open buffet Turkish breakfast. Our breakfast buffet, with freshly baked simit and poğaça, the Aegean's famous olives and cheeses, homemade jams, honey, kaymak and hot egg dishes, gives you an energetic start to your Izmir food tour.
After breakfast, our reception can give you food route suggestions, directions for a Kemeraltı food tour or up-to-date tips on Alsancak's best restaurants. Our experienced team will help you discover Izmir's hidden culinary gems.
Conclusion
From boyoz to gevrek, from olive oil dishes to its meyhane culture, Izmir is a gastronomic paradise where every bite carries history and tradition. Izmir's street food and unique food culture are a reason in themselves to visit the city. Whether you discover traditional flavours in the historic streets of Kemeraltı or try world cuisines in Alsancak's modern restaurants, Izmir will keep surprising you with every bite.
Book your stay at Riva Hotel Alsancak to have all of Izmir's flavours right on your doorstep, and start the day in style with our open buffet breakfast. Click the button below to take advantage of early booking offers.
